Friday, 6 December 2013

My Final Design

Here it is. My final look that I designed and Ley executed. I am over the moon with how this has turned out! I'm really thankful that me and Ley work so well together and understand one another's thought processes and ideas. We are inspired by a lot of the same things so when we get together its a massive creative burst of energy! The final outcome is pretty much how I envisioned it when designing it. Ley did a fantastic job of taking on board everything I had told her about my idea. The hair piece was better than I had excepted. I wanted to create something that looked elegant but also empowering and eerie, as this is how I imagined Queen Elizabeth the First to be. I wanted to incorporate feathers in to my design to add texture, and when researching I noticed that in quite a few pictures there were birds or pheasants somewhere in there. Also in the Elizabethan Era they didn't have supermarkets like we do now, they would have hunted for there food and this inspired my use of feathers. I wanted to use some sort of jewel or glitz as jewels were laced on the rich Elizabethans head pieces and clothes, so rather than adding jewels and sticking to the same idea they had by putting them on their clothes and in their hair, I wanted to twist it up and put sequins on the face. I personally feel that this created a really contemporary twist as the Elizabethans didn't go to town with make up on there face, apart from making sure they were pale. I wanted to create an eerie and powerful look, and overall I think myself and Ley achieved this. I am really pleased with my final design.

Self Evaluation

My self and Leonie partnered up for out Final Assessment. The brief was to design and create a contemporary Elizabethan look, but once we had done so, we then had to switch and each partner had to create the opposite partners design. We had 1 hour and 45 minutes to complete and perfect our Contemporary Elizabethan designs that we had created after having researched thoroughly in to the Elizabethan era. This included Hair and Make-up, and any styling if chosen to do so. Once the assessment started we were not allowed to discuss the designs and had to keep noise to a minimum. I was first to do the assessment which meant I was to do Leonie’s design on her. Leonie had done a lot of prep before the assessment, including making her head piece and jewels, so on the day of the assessment I felt a little more relaxed. This meant that I could focus more on the make-up making sure I perfected the lips and eyes. I feel personally that the assessment went according to plan as me and Ley had practised quite a few times before hand. We made sure that we knew each step off by heart and because we had discussed the design so many times we were extra prepared and I felt extremely confident. My self and Ley had talked about her inspiration behind the design she had created, meaning that I had a good understanding of where she wanted to go with the look which meant that we worked well as a team as I completed the look exactly how Ley envisioned it. I think Leonie got a bit worried that I wouldn’t finish in time as I spent some time on parts of the makeup that perhaps didn’t necessarily need to be faffed with, but because I was so confident that I would have the hair done in a short space of time I wasn’t too worried about not finishing on time. I do find that when it comes to doing winged eye shadow or eyeliner, in this case it was winged eye shadow; I find it hard matching each side. I found it tricky getting both sides exactly equal and this panicked me slightly as I wanted it to be perfect for Leonie. I want to be able to feel confident when doing this so I don’t stress too much when doing make up application, as I find that when I stress I doubt myself leading to me not perhaps doing as well as I could. I think I have a tendency to worry more than I need to at certain times which throws me off slightly, but I am slowly but surely learning to trust myself and my application. Overall I am really pleased with how the assessment went for Leonie’s design. I feel that we both worked in a professional and hygienic manner.

Peer Evaluation

I was pleased with how Leonie went about creating my Contemporary Elizabethan Design. She was organised and went about the assessment in a hygienic and professional manner. My self and Leonie had practised my design a few times before the actual assessment so we were both feeling confident and prepared for the day. Leonie was quite worried when I showed her my face chart design, as I had included quite an intricate make up design on the face using sequins. Leonie was worried that she wouldn’t have enough time to glue the sequins on as they are fairly fiddly and time consuming, but after we practised she soon relaxed as it didn’t in fact take much time at all. Like Leonie, I made my hair piece beforehand so Leonie had more time to focus on the make-up. Before the assessment me and Leonie had talked through in detail my inspiration for my design, and how I wanted to portray the look. This meant that Leonie understood my thought process and new how I wanted my design to look at the end. During the assessment Leonie got a little worked up when she was doing the eyebrows which resulted in her making a few mistakes. She decided to take off quite a bit of the makeup she had already done which meant she got even more stressed as she then had to go back and re do the makeup she had already done. However, she did quickly re compose herself and did a great job of the eyebrows afterwards. Leonie suffers from mental health problems so I took this in to consideration. Leonie positioned my hair piece exactly in the right place and made sure that it was pinned securely to my head using grips. Leonie did a great job of creating my design and I am very happy with the final result. She took on board all of the information I had given her and she produced some lovely make up.

My final chart design...

Here is my final design. I was inspired by the use of texture I have seen in the Elizabethan research I had looked at. I wanted to create an authentic contemporary look but obviously keeping to the brief which is for it to look Elizabethan with a contemporary twist. Myself and Ley practised this look before the assessment and discovered that there were a few parts of the design that wouldn't have worked within the time frame given, there for we had to adapt and change around some ideas to create a better outcome for the assessment . The parts of the design that we decided to change were the feather ruff that I wanted to structure on to the neck to create height and authority. I used a glue gun to glue the feathers together, but the glue was not strong enough to hold the structure together. And I didn't want to use it unless it was going to work exactly how I wanted it too. So I took that element away and I decided to have black lace draped over the neck and chest area, coming up on to the jaw line. I wasn't too disappointed about not being able to use the feather ruff as I actually preferred the look with just the black lace. It gave off quite an eerie feel which added to the overall image. I also decided that the look would look more aesthetically pleasing if I made the design look more symmetrical so I decided to add sequins on both sides rather than just one. I took the jewels  away as I felt that they added a tacky feel to the look.    

Practising Ley's Contemporary Elizabethan Design...

Here are a few pictures of when myself and Ley practised her Contemporary Design for the assessment. When we did this we didn't know we had 1 hour and 45 minutes so we set a timer for one hour and finished with 1 minute to spare. The practise went really well, Ley had explained to me in detail her thought process and inspirations so I was clear of where she wanted this to go. Before I started we set up everything we needed for the assessment so that everything was to hand. We practised as if we were in an assessment so we didn't really speak and we kept to the time (the time we thought we had, 1 hour). I was really happy with the result seeing as this was my first time. I need to focus on perfecting winged eyeliner.


Here are a few images I came across when researching in to contemporary Elizabethans. All of these pictures are so unique and beautifully designed. They have their own style yet still portray an Elizabethan theme. It's really amazing how much the Elizabethan era has sculpted and inspired the world we live in now.

Me and Leonie went to Ikea to try and find some inspiration for our ideas for out final design. It's amazing what you can find if you look for it.. there is inspiration in everything around us. We don't take advantage of this fact! The twisted plants reminded us of the Elizabethan plaits. The tops with the ribbed pattern on reminded us of armour, and the net at the top reminded us of a ruff!

My first contemporary Elizabethan design...

I really loved this design that I had come up with, I applied a white base and powdered over the top, then I used my Crownbrush eye shadow pallet using a warm pink tone to blend in to my neck and lower part of my face. I used a darker colour for around my jaw line to contour. I then whitened out my lashes with Illamaquas white base. I used a dark purple eye shadow to create typical Elizabethan lips, and then using paper I created my eyebrow ruffs and stuck then on using Duo Glue. I think this look could be adapted and perfected, I like the use of colour against the white base and I really love the idea of using ruffs as eyebrows, using paper inspired from the last deco session.

Designing for final look...

I wanted to create a design where the eyebrows really stood out. After being inspired by the lash deco session I liked the idea of using paper to create texture and depth in the eyebrows in my final look. The bottom design didn't work out how I wanted it too so I gave up! I was quite happy with the top design and I went on to practise this look on myself to see how I would go about creating the look. I wanted to add the colour on to the neck and face to create a contemporary twist, as appose to the face being white. And I created ruffs for the eyebrows, as they would have worn ruffs around the neck in the Elizabethan era.

After creating my lash deco face charts I wanted to research further in to using texture in my final design. I came across these images and fell in love with both the eyebrows. I really love the idea of making the eyebrows textured and stand out as eyebrows are what defines the face and gives real structure and shape.

Here are 2 designs I created inspired from the Lash Deco session we had with Lara. In the above design I wanted to create a design wholly around the eye. I think that I could adapt this design and perfect it making it pop and become very intricate.
The second design is my favourite of the two. I wanted to create a cold effect using cool tones for the eyes, lips and contouring. I liked the idea of using shreds of paper to create the eyebrows, and again shreds of paper to create the lashes, I like the idea of lashes being a natural resource.

Lash Deco Workshop...


Elizabethan Skin...

I thought that this image was a fantastic way to portray just how damaged and unhealthy the Elizabethan women's skin truly was. So much so that in some cases they actually died! With all the chemicals and poisons they were lacing on to their skin, it was no wonder that they would end up looking extremely haggard and ill way before their time. Back in the Elizabethan era they didn't have the knowledge and understanding that we do in the 21st century. Therefore they were almost clueless as to how damaging what they were putting on to their faces really was. The above image portrays this beautifully and I think who ever created the image has done a wonderful job.

Egg White...

 So in this session Lara got us to create a base using Egg whites and white power!! Back in the Elizabethan times they would have used egg as a "face lift"! When the egg white dries it creates an uplifting effect, meaning that the skin pulls tighter making you appear to have less wrinkles and tighter skin! It was really quite interesting using this product today as it makes you wonder what we would do with out all of the beautiful products we have today! I'm not sure how well it would go down if doctors were to start saying we should stop using all these products on our skin and go back to the old ways of creating beauty! We added in to the egg white white powder paint which gave the products an almost gritty texture, and as you can see from the pictures paled out the skin which was the sought after look in the Elizabethan era. I can't say I will be doing this again any time soon but to try this out was great fun!

Tuesday, 3 December 2013

Skin Diseases...


What is acne?
Acne is a very common skin condition characterised by comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and pus-filled spots (pustules). It usually starts at puberty and varies in severity from a few spots on the face, back and chest, which most adolescents will have at some time, to a more serious problem that may be embarrassing, sap self-confidence and cause scarring. For the majority it tends to resolve by the late teens or early twenties but can persist for longer in some people. Acne can develop for the first time in people in their late twenties or even the thirties. It occasionally occurs in young children.
What causes acne?
The sebaceous (oil-producing) glands of people who get acne are particularly sensitive to normal blood levels of a hormone called testosterone, which is present in both men and women. This causes the glands to produce an excess of oil. At the same time, the dead skin cells lining the pores are not shed properly and clog up the follicles. These two effects result in a build-up of oil producing blackheads (where a darkened plug of oil is visible) and whiteheads.
The acne bacterium (known as Propionibacterium acnes) lives on everyone’s skin, usually causing no problems, but, in those prone to acne, the build up of oil creates an ideal environment in which these bacteria can multiply. This triggers inflammation and the formation of red or pus-filled spots.
Is acne hereditary?
Acne can run in families, but this does not necessarily mean that if your parents had acne you will get it too.
What does acne look like and what does it feel like?
The typical appearance of acne is a mixture of the following: an oily skin, blackheads and whiteheads, red spots and yellow pus-filled pimples, and scars. Occasionally, large, tender spots or cysts may develop which can either eventually burst and discharge their contents or may heal up without bursting.
How is acne diagnosed?
Acne is easily recognised by the appearance of the spots and by their distribution on the face, neck, chest or back. However there are several varieties of acne and your doctor will be able to tell you which type you have after examining your skin. The most common type is “acne vulgaris”.
Can acne be cured?
At present there is no ‘cure’ for acne, although the available treatments can be very effective in preventing the formation of new spots and scarring.

Eczema (Atopic Eczema)

What is atopic eczema?
Atopic eczema is an inflammatory condition of the skin. Atopic is the term used to describe conditions such as eczema, asthma, seasonal rhinitis and hay fever, which often have a genetic basis. Eczema is the term used to describe changes in the upper layer of the skin that include redness, blistering, oozing, crusting, scaling, thickening and sometimes pigmentation (although not all of these changes will necessarily occur together). The words eczema and dermatitis are interchangeable and mean the same thing: thus atopic eczema is the same as atopic dermatitis. For simplicity we shall use atopic eczema in this leaflet.
Atopic eczema affects both sexes equally and usually starts in the first weeks or months of life. It is most common in children, affecting at least 10% of infants at some stage. It usually disappears during childhood, although it can carry on into adult life or come back in the teenage or early adult years. It may occasionally develop for the first time in adulthood.
What causes atopic eczema?
This is still not fully understood. A tendency to atopic conditions often runs in families (see below) and is part of your genetic make-up. In people with atopic eczema, the function of their skin as a barrier to the outside world does not work well, so that irritant and allergy-inducing substance enter their skin, and may cause dryness and inflammation. Atopic eczema is not catching.
Is atopic eczema hereditary?
Yes. Atopic eczema (as well as asthma and hay fever) tends to run in families. If one or both parents suffer from eczema, asthma or hay fever, it is more likely that their children will suffer from them too. In addition, there is a tendency for these conditions to run true to type within each family: in other words, in some families most of the affected members will have eczema, and, in others, asthma or hay fever will predominate.
What are the symptoms of atopic eczema?
The main symptom is itch. Scratching in response to itch may be the cause for many of the changes seen on the skin. Itching can be bad enough to interfere with sleep, causing tiredness and irritability.
What does atopic eczema look like?
Atopic eczema can affect any part of the skin, including the face, but the areas most commonly affected are the bends of the elbows and knees, and around the wrists and neck (a flexural pattern). Other common appearances of atopic eczema include discrete coin-sized areas of inflammation (a discoid pattern), and numerous small bumps that coincide with the hair follicles (a follicular pattern).
If you have eczema, it is likely your skin will be red and dry, and scratch marks (and bleeding) are common. When the eczema is very active (during a ‘flare-up’) you may develop small water blisters on the hands and feet, or the affected areas of your skin may become moist and weepy. In areas that are repeatedly scratched, the skin may thicken up (a process known as lichenification), and become even more itchy.
What makes atopic eczema flare up?
Many factors in a person’s environment can make eczema worse. These include;
  • Heat, dust and contact with irritants such as soap or detergents
  • Being unwell: for example having a common cold can make eczema flare
  • Infections with bacteria or viruses can make eczema worse. Bacterial infection (usually with a bug called Staphylococcus) makes the affected skin yellow, crusty and inflamed, and may need treatment with antibiotics. An infection with the virus that causes cold sores (herpes simplex virus) can cause a painful widespread (and occasionally dangerous) flare of eczema, and may need treatment with antiviral tablets
  • Dryness of the skin
  • Perhaps stress
How is atopic eczema diagnosed?
It is usually easy for health care professionals, such as health visitors, practice nurses and general practitioners, to diagnose eczema when they look at the skin. However, sometimes the pattern of eczema in older children and adults is different, and the help of a hospital specialist may be needed. Blood tests and skin tests are usually not necessary. Occasionally the skin may need to be swabbed (by rubbing a sterile cotton bud on it) to check for bacterial or viral infections.
Can atopic eczema be cured?
No, it cannot be cured, but there are many ways of controlling it. Most children with atopic eczema improve as they get older (75% clear by their teens). However, many of those who have had eczema continue to have dry skin and need to avoid irritants such as soaps or bubble baths. Eczema may persist in adults, but it should be controllable with the right treatment. Atopic eczema may be troublesome for people in certain jobs that bring them into contact with irritant materials, such as catering, hairdressing or nursing.

Contact Dermatitis

What is contact dermatitis?
The words ‘dermatitis’ and ‘eczema’ are interchangeable and mean the same thing.  Contact dermatitis, therefore, is the same thing as contact eczema.  For simplicity we will stick to the word ‘dermatitis’ in this leaflet. 
Dermatitis means an inflammation of the skin. The term ‘contact dermatitis’ is used when this inflammation is caused by contact with something in the environment.
What causes contact dermatitis?
Two main groups of things in the environment cause contact dermatitis: irritants and allergens.
Irritants are substances like detergents and solvents that strip the skin of its natural oils, and cause dermatitis to develop if contacted frequently and without skin protection. When this happens, the skin changes are known as an irritant contact dermatitis. The most important factor in causing this type of contact dermatitis is the amount of irritants to which you are exposed. It is particularly common in people who do a lot of wet work, for example nurses, hairdressers, those who work in bars, and those in the catering trade. 
Allergens are things to which your immune system can develop a specific reaction after you have come into contact with them. Examples include substances such as nickel, rubber, and perfumes or preservatives used in some creams and cosmetics.  This type of dermatitis is called an allergic contact dermatitis.  It is not known why some people who are exposed to these allergens develop it while others do not. 
Sometimes substances such as proteins in fruit and vegetables can cause an immediate allergic reaction leading to itchy skin swellings known as contact urticaria (hives), which in turn can aggravate your dermatitis. 
Contact dermatitis cannot be caught from nor spread to other people.
Is contact dermatitis hereditary?
People with a tendency to asthma, eczema and hay fever develop irritant contact dermatitis more easily than others, and this tendency does run in families.
What are the symptoms of contact dermatitis?
Itching of the skin is the commonest symptom, and this can be intense. Sometimes the skin becomes sore, and painful cracks can develop over the backs of the fingers when dermatitis affects the hands.
What does contact dermatitis look like?
The commonest areas on which contact dermatitis occurs are the hands, arms, face and legs. During a flare, contact dermatitis inflames the skin surface making it look red and scaly. Sometimes, tiny water blisters develop and these leak fluid when scratched. When the contact dermatitis is less active, the skin looks thick and dry, and painful little cracks can form over joints.
How will it be diagnosed? 

Irritant contact dermatitis is diagnosed simply by knowing which irritant substances your skin is exposed to, and how often this occurs. 
Allergic contact dermatitis is diagnosed by a procedure available in specialist dermatology departments known as patch testing. This involves putting sticky patches containing different substances on your back. The patches are taken off 2 days later, and the doctor or patch test nurse will then look at your back to see which ones have reacted. They will need to look again after a further 48 hours to see if there are further reactions. 

Can contact dermatitis be cured?
Yes - if you can greatly reduce your contact with irritants, then your irritant contact dermatitis will improve or clear.
If patch testing shows that you are allergic to a specific allergen, then avoiding that allergen will usually lead to a big improvement or even complete clearance of your allergic contact dermatitis.

Herpes Simplex

What is herpes simplex?
Herpes simplex is an infection of the skin with the herpes simplex virus. This can be caught from another person after direct skin-to-skin contact, mouth contact, or sexual contact. The first time the virus is caught, it does not always show up on the skin, but can lie dormant within special parts of the sensory nerves (the sensory nerve ganglia). Later in life, the virus can become active again and appear as herpes simplex on the skin. The commonest areas to be affected by herpes simplex are the lips (as cold sores) and the genital area (as genital herpes).
Is herpes simplex hereditary?
What does herpes simplex feel like and what does it look like?
The very first infection is often un-noticed as it may only produce a short-lived redness of the skin. Sometimes, however, a first infection can make a person feel very unwell with a temperature, swollen lymph glands and soreness and blisters in the mouth and on the lips or elsewhere on the skin.
When the herpes simplex virus infection becomes active again, the first symptom is a burning or stinging pain at the affected site, followed by pink bumps and small blisters. The blisters quickly dry and crust over, and the areas usually heal over within a few days. Repeated attacks usually occur in roughly the same place each time.
If Herpes simplex virus infects the eye it causes pain, sensitivity to light and discharge and can cause scarring.
How is herpes simplex diagnosed?
Usually the appearance of skin affected by herpes simplex is enough to make a diagnosis. Sometimes a surface swab is taken, but getting the result usually takes a few days. If you think you have herpes in the genital area, you can be seen quickly at your local Genito-Urinary Medicine (GUM) or Sexual Health clinic.
Can herpes simplex be cured?
Symptoms clear in a few days or weeks, with or without treatment, though the virus will remain in a dormant state in the body.  In a majority of patients, recurrent symptoms are mild and infrequent, or do not happen at all.  For a minority, troublesome recurrences can usually be prevented by using oral anti-viral drugs or adopting lifestyle changes.
Things that encourage the virus to be more active are:
  • Other infections such as colds or ‘flu. 
  • Getting tired and run-down. 
  • Sunburn 
  • A skin injury, such as an operation or a graze, at the place where the virus shows itself at the surface


Contemporary Elizabethan Make--up ...

For this session Sue had chosen two Contemporary Elizabethan images which she wanted us to copy and create on our partner. I partnered up with Ley. I chose to create the second picture from the top on Ley and Ley chose to create the top picture on myself.
There is quite a difference between the two pictures, one is dark and cold and the other has warm tones in it. I chose the warmer toned picture to create on Ley as I thought that her skin tone would suit the orange colour used on the eyes and cheeks. I started off by cleansing and toning, then moisturising. I then chose the products I thought best matched the colours used in the picture and began to copy the make up. I started off by creating a pale base, then chose an orange tone from my Crownbrush eye shadow pallet, and applied it to her eyes and cheeks. I used a copper tone from my Illamasqua liquid gold pallet to apply to the lip.
I wasn't happy with how this look turned out as I struggle to get a smooth well buffed in base with the Illamasqua white foundation. I find that the product is really think and I haven't yet sussed out how to crack the perfect base with it! But this is something I will keep practising until I have mastered it!
Ley has dry skin, with a few spots around the outer area of her face. She is allergic to lavender. Hair colour is Blue, in very dry condition. Age 21. Eye colour blue, shape rounded.

I found these pictures on Google after having researched into contemporary Elizabethan make up and styling. The textures in each are what particularly caught my eye. I love using texture in my work, so this is always an appealing feature to me.

This is the look Alice created on me...